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Subject: Re: solarizing lith film



You need to use a continuous tone developer. It's quite possible; I used to
make copy transparencies on Kodalith 2556 and IIRC used dilute print dev. Of
course, printing from negs, you'll then have solarised positives which
you'll need to contact print again to get a neg for printing. That's why you
might want to try solarising prints, copying them, then printing from the
new neg. To get a solarised neg direct you need to print on direct positive
film. Or you could reversal process the lith film. Good luck, and well done
for helping. keep wet photography alive
"Luis Ortega" wrote in message
news:jd4Hf.22062$i2.16707@newsfe6-gui.ntli.net...
> Thanks, I've been reading about it and it seems that you need to use a
> different
> developer than lith developer to produce some sort of tonal range on the
> film that can get solarized.
>
> "Pat" wrote in message
> news:1139543017.024716.268010@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...
> > Wow, I've been out of the darkroom so long ....
> >
> > As I remember it, Litho film is very high contrast and you get only
> > black and clear -- no grayscale. I'm not sure how that would solarize.
> >
> > I did a quite search and found this article
> > http://photography.about.com/library/weekly/aa091399c.htm
> > It talks a little about Lith film and the chemicals. Maybe it will
> > help. You know more about film than I do. It's just been SO long. Put
> > is this way, I still use ASA instead of ISO. But it's great to see
> > someone staying with traditional methods.
> >
> > Sorry I can't be of more help. Good luck.
> >
>
>



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